Hacienda Guachala, 1580

www.guachala.com

Hacienda Guachala is perhaps Ecuador's oldest functioning hacienda, built in 1580.  It has housed international expeditions, dignitaries, and presidents.  I loved the antiquity of the place, full of historic photos, stories, and antiques.  It is a gem!  From here we took a long horse-back ride into the mountains.  There are several pre-Incan and Incan archeological sites to visit nearby.  Also some hot springs-still on my to-do list!

Meals were hearty and wholesome.  My favourite was Locro: Cheese and Potato Soup topped with Avocado.  There is some gruesomeness in the stories: a torture room for workers who failed in their duties, and looms left from the Obrajes, sweat shops, where indigenous men, women, and children were forced to work 12 hour days sometimes until death.  But also much beauty, and community: churches, gardens, schools, and service.  A long and colourful history!

Main hall smells of leather, wood smoke, and horses

Our cozy room with eucalyptus wood fire against cool

Chapel tower with massive cacti

Ancient cross in original rammed earth wall, built 1580

Stone patio set with stables converted to lovely guest rooms

Adobe brick flooring has seen many feet

Llama in pasture with rolling fields in distance

Gigantic aloe in yard

Massive old eucalyptus trees lining laneway

Pond reflections

Chirije Archeological Site and Lodge

www.chirije.com

We met Patricio Tamariz in Bahia de Caraquez after a rather muddling bus trip from Canoa on Ecuador's Pacific Coast.  He owns and operates a beautiful little ecolodge on the beach south of Bahia.  We had read about his company, Bahia Dolphin Tours, and archeological site, Chirije, in a guide book and were keen to visit there.  Patricio and his staff were so friendly and helpful in arranging everything.  Patricio drove us out along the beach at low tide to get to the site.  The ocean was that lovely turquoise colour.  The landscape is tropical dry forest and due for rains to start in January.  Now it is incredibly dry and mostly brown.
The lodge was classy and comfortable.  We had the place all to ourselves which felt quite upper-class.  At high tide the waves run right up the drive and no one can come or go.  Walking the beach John found several beautiful pottery shards, and the ground is littered with them.  We also hiked up the mountain and had a closeup look at tropical dry forest vegetation.  The ceibo trees which look like African boababs were especially cool!
This is a wonderful and amazing place which I highly recommend!

Patricio also has a book recently published through Amazon:
The Secret of Paradise: Mysteries of the Pacific Coast of Ecuador by Patricio Tamariz and Bo Rinaldi

Intag Adventures

Rio Intag from the porch in the rain

Banana trees in the rain

Same view on a clear morning.  Funny, sharp hills and mtns.  Some are cropped right to top.

Local transport.  Very handsome but no suspension!  Luggage, produce, and people go on top rack.

John with giant jungle leaves.  So many shades of green!

Hiked into cloud forest waterfall along public road that becomes forest path from village to village.  Santa Rosa to Plaza Guttieres, great names!

A tree full of bromeliads.  These air-feeding plants anchor on everything including power lines.  Beautiful!

The Intag Valley is  a long and rugged 2 hr bus ride fromOtavalo but well worth the journey.  We spent a week this time and will return to stay at Grace Lush's home and farm again in January.  In the valley and on slopes grow coffee, tropical fruit, corn, beans, and a full range of livestock.  People are friendly and helpful though no one but the Germanvolunteers speak English.  We hot springed, hiked lots, rode horses up the mtn, visited the cloud forest, and hung out in the hammocks.  The river is clean and clear and John is drooling to whitewater kayak on it.  Might be a bit much for me- not sure.
For now, we areback in Otavalo stocking up on cash and favourite treats- 5 packs of TicTacs and Chips Ahoy biscuits.  Tomorrow on the road north! More news soon- stay tuned!  Ciao.  Sandra J.