Hacienda Guachala, 1580

www.guachala.com

Hacienda Guachala is perhaps Ecuador's oldest functioning hacienda, built in 1580.  It has housed international expeditions, dignitaries, and presidents.  I loved the antiquity of the place, full of historic photos, stories, and antiques.  It is a gem!  From here we took a long horse-back ride into the mountains.  There are several pre-Incan and Incan archeological sites to visit nearby.  Also some hot springs-still on my to-do list!

Meals were hearty and wholesome.  My favourite was Locro: Cheese and Potato Soup topped with Avocado.  There is some gruesomeness in the stories: a torture room for workers who failed in their duties, and looms left from the Obrajes, sweat shops, where indigenous men, women, and children were forced to work 12 hour days sometimes until death.  But also much beauty, and community: churches, gardens, schools, and service.  A long and colourful history!

Main hall smells of leather, wood smoke, and horses

Our cozy room with eucalyptus wood fire against cool

Chapel tower with massive cacti

Ancient cross in original rammed earth wall, built 1580

Stone patio set with stables converted to lovely guest rooms

Adobe brick flooring has seen many feet

Llama in pasture with rolling fields in distance

Gigantic aloe in yard

Massive old eucalyptus trees lining laneway

Pond reflections

Chirije Archeological Site and Lodge

www.chirije.com

We met Patricio Tamariz in Bahia de Caraquez after a rather muddling bus trip from Canoa on Ecuador's Pacific Coast.  He owns and operates a beautiful little ecolodge on the beach south of Bahia.  We had read about his company, Bahia Dolphin Tours, and archeological site, Chirije, in a guide book and were keen to visit there.  Patricio and his staff were so friendly and helpful in arranging everything.  Patricio drove us out along the beach at low tide to get to the site.  The ocean was that lovely turquoise colour.  The landscape is tropical dry forest and due for rains to start in January.  Now it is incredibly dry and mostly brown.
The lodge was classy and comfortable.  We had the place all to ourselves which felt quite upper-class.  At high tide the waves run right up the drive and no one can come or go.  Walking the beach John found several beautiful pottery shards, and the ground is littered with them.  We also hiked up the mountain and had a closeup look at tropical dry forest vegetation.  The ceibo trees which look like African boababs were especially cool!
This is a wonderful and amazing place which I highly recommend!

Patricio also has a book recently published through Amazon:
The Secret of Paradise: Mysteries of the Pacific Coast of Ecuador by Patricio Tamariz and Bo Rinaldi

Intag Adventures

Rio Intag from the porch in the rain

Banana trees in the rain

Same view on a clear morning.  Funny, sharp hills and mtns.  Some are cropped right to top.

Local transport.  Very handsome but no suspension!  Luggage, produce, and people go on top rack.

John with giant jungle leaves.  So many shades of green!

Hiked into cloud forest waterfall along public road that becomes forest path from village to village.  Santa Rosa to Plaza Guttieres, great names!

A tree full of bromeliads.  These air-feeding plants anchor on everything including power lines.  Beautiful!

The Intag Valley is  a long and rugged 2 hr bus ride fromOtavalo but well worth the journey.  We spent a week this time and will return to stay at Grace Lush's home and farm again in January.  In the valley and on slopes grow coffee, tropical fruit, corn, beans, and a full range of livestock.  People are friendly and helpful though no one but the Germanvolunteers speak English.  We hot springed, hiked lots, rode horses up the mtn, visited the cloud forest, and hung out in the hammocks.  The river is clean and clear and John is drooling to whitewater kayak on it.  Might be a bit much for me- not sure.
For now, we areback in Otavalo stocking up on cash and favourite treats- 5 packs of TicTacs and Chips Ahoy biscuits.  Tomorrow on the road north! More news soon- stay tuned!  Ciao.  Sandra J.

Condor in Flight

Visited Condor Park, raptor rehab centre overlooking Otavalo today and was very happy with this photo.  She is in captivity but very wild!
Second photo is centre director with bald eagle.  Huge and beautiful!
See www.parquecondor.org
Enjoy!

Chachimbiro Hot Springs

From Cotacachi we headed out on a day trip, hoping to make our way to a relaxing hot srings soak.  Bus schedules being unknown commodities, we knew it might not unfold that way.  The bus ride to Ibarra was fast and simple along the newly-paved Pan-American Highway- it runs the full length of South America, following the Andes Mountains much of the way.
The bus station in Ibarra is clean, modern, and busy with a mall carrying a range of goods.  Everything from agricultural chemicals to shoes to computers to vitamins to live poultry.  Connections were excellent, and we transfered to a country bus headed for Chachimbiro via Urcuqui- the names are so fun- I love how they roll off the tongue!
The mountains are steep, rugged, and dry, as you can see from first photo.  Huge agave plants and cacti border the road, some of which is paved and the rest is cobbled.  Many of the mountain roads and streets are done in hand-laid cobble, and maintained by shared community labour known as Minga.
An hour and a half NW of Ibarra, we came to road's end in the narrow canyon of Chachimbiro Hot Springs.  It is full of food vendors, small hotels, and shops selling inflatable beach toys.  Ecuadorians flock here on weekends and holidays for family vacations.  Right now it is very quiet- all are saving their cash for Christmas.  Chachimbiro has 2 sets of pools and facilities.  The recreational area features waterslides, games rooms, eateries, and a disco for family leisure.  The medicinal area is more peaceful- small pools of varying temperatures for relaxation and therapy- MMM!!!
I am a hot springs connosieur, and loved this one- highly recommended.  Facilities are clean and quaint with some lovely wildlife murals, and sculptures.  Individual tubs with adjustable temperatures, several pools with jets, hot showers, all with thermal mineral waters straight from the mountain.  Volcanic waters rich in sulpher, chlorides, iron, copper, and manganese are believed to give relief from various aches and illnesses.  Best of all is the steam room-a stone cabin with a little hobbit door built against the cliff face, capturing the steam from the hot water stream.  Some fresh herbs add to the healing qualities.

After 3 hours of soaking and relaxing, we were challenged to begin long bus ride home.  Next time we will stay on-site overnight.  We arrived home tired but content.  It was a great outing, and I hope to share it with you some time. 

Ecuador Ready!!!

Mitad del Mundo

Middle of the earth
Ecuador on the equator
In high exotic Andes

East to Amazon's mighty jungles

West to Pacific Ocean

Fabled Galapagos

I go on this sojourn

To meet myself

In a new place, space, face

I am born again

In my creative adventures

Learn deep truth

In the middle of the earth.



At Peguche Waterfall



Cloud Forest of Intag





Otavalo Street Scene



Otavalo Market Vendor







These images are from my 2009 trip to Ecuador with Grace Lush and "Touch the Jungle".  It was a wonderful trip and I am so excited about further adventures there.  John Vanderburgh and I will be in Ecuador Nov.20 to Jan.17, 2013.  Two months is a good bit of time to explore import and tour options, hike, hot spring, practice Spanish, and get a feel for the country.  We will spend much of our time in the Andes near Otavalo, but will do some beach and hot springs adventures in other areas too.  This will prepare us for leading tours and importing beautiful Andean textiles and handicrafts in future.  I hope you will enjoy sharing our experiences.  Happy travels!!!







Best Spa in Grey-Bruce

MMM!!!  Soaking up to my neck in hot salt water is my favourite way to relax and unwind.  Steam rises into the sunny blue sky.  The breeze carries a eucalyptus fragrance from the steam room.  Wood fires crackle on the hearths.  All is well in my world.  The Scandinave at Collingwood is an enticing and affordable luxury which I highly recommend.  My Mom and I had a wonderful day bathing, and reading there yesterday.  They serve wholesome, and tasty lunches, too.  Don't miss the almondine croissant!  Check it out at www.scandinaveblue.com

Beautiful Beaver Valley

Flowerpot Perching along Bruce Trail

We enjoyed another beautiful day of hiking in Beaver Valley.  Weather was warm and overcast.  I am nearing the completion of the Beaver Valley section which was one of my goals for this season.  Many of the leaves have fallen with the rains and winds we have had, but the little sumac in foreground is hanging on.  Following are some lovely little beech trees which will hold colour in the forest through winter.  It is such a joy to be out in the wilds, walking and breathing.  I hope you are partaking of these pleasures, too!

Dorset Lookout Tower Colours

Dorset, Ontario is a small community on Lake of Bays near Algonquin Park.  This tower was originally built to monitor for forest fires.  Now it is primarily a tourist lookout tower.  The autumn colours were especially beautiful this fall.  I hadn't visited this area since childhood so it was a real treat to climb, and enjoy spectacular views.  The forests stretch for miles in all directions.  Small lakes nestle among the rolling hills.  This is Canadian Shield country-old worn pink and grey granite that forms the bedrock of North America.  I appreciate the First Nations name: Turtle Island, she carries us all on her broad back.  The trees are mostly hardwoods, especially sugar maples, and oaks.  They make wonderful oxygen.  Many thanks!!!

If you are breathing today, thank the green beings of our little planet.  They do their part.

Sydenham End-to-End Hike

Hooray!!!  This weekend I completed my first Bruce Trail section hike.  The Bruce Trail is Canada's oldest, and longest footpath, running from Niagara to Tobermory, Ontario.  The Sydenham section is 170 km from the edge of Beaver Valley to Wiarton.  The trail follows the Niagara Escarpment along limestone cliffs overlooking beautiful Georgian Bay and surrounding forests, fields, and wetlands.  It is magnificent landscape!  This is my first major hiking ever, covering around 20 km daily over the course of two spring, and two autumn weekends.  I loved the scenery, the company, and my hot bath at the end of a long trail day.  I am very pleased with myself.  My goal is to hike the full 885km over the next two years.  The Bruce Trail and I are turning 50 years together.  What a great adventure!

Fall Colours

Sunny autumn day and colours are spectacular! I love to walk our forests this time of year when there is so much beauty.  We are blessed to live amidst such glory.  Nature takes me into myself, to a place where I breathe and smile more easily.  It is a joy to watch the seasons change.  Each has its own unique gifts for all to appreciate.  I hope you are loving it as I am.  Best wishes,  Sandra